By Cathy M. Rosenthal

Summer isn’t just vacation season. It’s lost-pet season.

Every year, animal shelters brace for something many pet owners never see coming. As temperatures rise, so do the numbers of lost dogs and cats. Most people blame the Fourth of July. But fireworks are only one piece of a much bigger story.

Summer creates the perfect storm for pets to go missing.

Children are home from school and constantly opening doors. Families are traveling. Friends stop by to visit. Backyard projects leave gates unlatched. Delivery drivers come and go. Dogs spend more time outdoors. Cats slip through screened doors. Then add thunderstorms, neighborhood fireworks, unfamiliar visitors, and disrupted routines, and even the calmest pet can make one panicked decision.

Sometimes, it happens in seconds.

One moment your dog is lying beside you while you water the flowers. The next, a loud motorcycle, clap of thunder, or unexpected firework startles him, and he’s through an open gate you didn’t even realize was unlatched.

Over the years, I’ve heard the same sentence from heartbroken pet owners more times than I can count:

“He’s never done that before.”

Until he did.

According to animal shelters, the weeks surrounding the Fourth of July are among the busiest times of the year for stray-animal intake. But in many Texas neighborhoods, fireworks begin long before the holiday itself, often with little warning. For pets that fear loud noises, the anxiety may build for weeks.

Fear changes behavior.

Dogs have been known to climb fences they’ve ignored for years. Cats can squeeze through impossibly small openings. And once frightened, many pets don’t simply run next door. They keep running, becoming increasingly disoriented by noise, heat, and unfamiliar surroundings.

Summer also brings more opportunities for pets to slip away. Families take vacations. Friends stop by for barbecues. Pet sitters come and go. Children race in and out of the house. A guest forgets to latch the gate. A pet sitter doesn’t realize the cat bolts for the door. A family heads out to dinner just as a thunderstorm rolls in.

Most lost pets don’t disappear because someone was careless. They disappear because life happened. That’s why preparation matters far more than guilt.

If your pet becomes anxious during storms or fireworks, don’t wait until the Fourth of July to make a plan. Talk with your veterinarian now. Some pets benefit from medication. Others do well with a quiet room, white noise, closed curtains, or simply staying indoors with their family during noisy evenings.

Just as important, understand that accidents can happen. Make sure your pet’s microchip is registered with your current phone number. Check that ID tags are easy to read. Keep recent photos of your pet on your phone, and inspect gates and fencing regularly for loose boards, gaps, or latches that don’t quite close.

Unfortunately, not every lost pet makes it back home.

One of the biggest reasons is surprisingly simple: many aren’t carrying any form of identification.

The precautions may seem small — until they’re the very things that bring your pet home.

Above all, don’t assume your pet would never run away.

Every summer, shelters fill with dogs and cats whose families believed exactly that.

Sometimes, the difference between heartbreak and a happy reunion comes down to something as simple as an updated phone number on a tag or a registered microchip.

Dear Cathy,
My 60-pound Labrador, Lily, treats bath time like I’ve invited her to the world’s scariest waterslide. The second I say “Let’s get you clean,” she disappears behind the couch and somehow becomes twelve paws of hydraulic resistance. Is there a kinder, smarter way to get her bathed without turning my bathroom into a slip-n-slide of doom? — Jenna, Las Vegas, Nevada

Dear Jenna,
You’ve just described a universal truth: many dogs believe the bathtub is a portal to another dimension. The good news is we can make bath day less “run for your life!” and more “spa with snacks.”

First, check for a reason behind the drama.
If Lily’s fear is new, rule out aches and pains. Arthritis, sore hips, ear infections, or even a too-warm water temp can turn a routine rinse into “absolutely not.” A quick veterinary check and gentler handling can make all the difference.

Reset the bathroom vibe.
Right now, your dog associates bathroom = bath = nope. For the next week, turn the bathroom into a treat palace: toss a trail of tiny goodies leading in, feed a stuffed lick mat on the floor, and practice short sit-treat-leave sessions. No water, no lifting—just “good things happen in this room.” Ten tasty visits later, the room starts to feel less like a trap and more like a cafeteria.

Get a grip (literally).
Slippery surfaces scare dogs. Lay down a rubber bath mat or folded towel in the tub and on the path to it. When feet don’t slide, hearts don’t race.

Lower the splash factor.
Skip the power-spray. Use a gentle handheld sprayer on the lowest setting or a plastic cup for scooping. Test water at baby-bath warm—not hot, not chilly, it needs to be just right. If the sprayer sound is spooky, fill a small bucket and pour slowly along the spine. Never spray water into the ears or face.

Pre-game with a brush.
A good brushing before the bath lifts loose hair and dirt, which makes the wash quicker—and less time in the tub makes everyone happier. Bonus: It also reduces drain clogs.

Soap smart.
Use a dog shampoo (not human—our pH is different) and dilute it in a squeeze bottle: one part shampoo to four parts water. This spreads easier, rinses faster, and avoids that soapy “forever rinse” that makes dogs formulate escape plans.

Make it a lick-and-learn session.
Smear a silicone lick mat with peanut butter (xylitol-free), cream cheese, or wet food and stick it to the wall at nose height. While Lily licks, you wash. It’s hard to argue with bath time when your mouth is busy with snacks.

Wash order matters.
Start at the shoulders and work back, saving the tail area for last (it’s touchy) and skipping the face entirely. Instead, use a damp cloth to gently wipe the muzzle and around the eyes. Place cotton balls lightly in the ears to keep out water, and remove them when you’re done.

Rinse like you mean it.
Residue itches and causes flakes. Rinse until the coat feels “squeaky” under your fingers, then rinse once more for luck. Towel dry—press, don’t rub, to avoid knots with long-haired dogs—and finish with a calm walk or a sun nap to help the coat settle.

If tub = terror, change the stage.
Some dogs prefer an outdoor bath with two buckets (one soapy, one rinse) and zero sprayer noise. Others relax in a walk-in shower where they can step in on their own. Still too much? Try a professional groomer with a low-stress setup and non-slip grooming tables.

Waterless for the win.
Between full baths—or for dogs who write strongly worded letters about shampoo—use pet wipes, foam or spray-on waterless shampoos, and a good brush-out. Spray into your hands first to avoid the hiss near sensitive ears, massage through the coat, then towel. Your dog thinks it’s a massage; you call it “maintenance.”

Reinforce the right ending.
The bath is over when the treats say it’s over. End with a favorite game, dinner, or a special chew so the last thing Lily remembers is “post-bath perks,” not “suds and suspense.”

The real secret? Bath day isn’t one big event; it’s a series of tiny, positive moments. Stack enough of those—and add snacks—and your “portal of doom” might turn into “five-star dog spa” for Lily.

By Cathy M. Rosenthal

When most people think of the 4th of July, they picture backyard barbecues, family gatherings, and fireworks lighting up the night sky. But if you’re the owner of a noise-phobic pet, like I was, you probably picture something else entirely: trembling, panting, pacing, and wide-eyed panic.

I’ve shared my life with two dogs who were absolutely terrified of loud noises. Rocky and Maggie didn’t just startle at fireworks — one loud pop could send them spiraling into a full-blown panic that lasted for hours. And once the fear cycle started, it was nearly impossible to calm them down.

Noise-phobia is more than just nervousness. For many dogs, it’s sheer terror. Symptoms can include panting, pacing, trembling, hiding, freezing in place, or worse — trying to escape entirely. Some dogs will claw at doors or even crash through windows in a desperate attempt to get away from the sounds they think are closing in on them. It’s heartbreaking to watch and can be dangerous for both the dog and your home.

After years of trial and error, I learned that there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. In fact, helping Maggie and Rocky required layering multiple strategies depending on the severity of the situation. On quieter nights, I might slip on Maggie’s anxiety garments, add a few drops of Rescue Remedy® (homeopathic stress relief) to her water, and turn on some calming classical music — often Through a Dog’s Ear, which was designed specifically to soothe anxious dogs. I even added lavender oil to a diffuser to help create a more relaxing environment.

But when the big fireworks shows started, I had to bring out the full toolkit. Maggie received a prescription for anxiety from our vet, which helped her relax enough to keep her safe. I wrapped her in not one but two anxiety garments, turned up the volume on an action movie to drown out the booms, and sometimes we retreated to my walk-in closet, where the hanging clothes helped muffle the sound even more. Even with all that, she still trembled—but it was far better than the level of panic she used to experience.

If your dog struggles with noise anxiety, don’t wait until the first fireworks start to figure out a plan. The earlier you prepare, the better your chances of helping your dog cope. Start by talking with your veterinarian. Medication isn’t always necessary, but in severe cases, it can be an important part of keeping your dog safe and calm during the peak of the noise.

Help your dog get comfortable with any tools you plan to use, whether it’s anxiety garments, white noise machines, or calming music, by practicing with them during quiet, uneventful times. The goal is to build positive associations long before the first firecracker pops. And yes, plan to be home with your noisephobic pet during fireworks and thunderstorms. Even if you can’t take the fear away entirely, your calm presence can be reassuring.

And while dogs often wear their fear more visibly, cats feel the stress too; they’re just better at hiding it. A frightened cat may simply vanish under the bed or behind the couch for hours. Before the noise starts, create a quiet space away from windows with cozy hiding spots, white noise, or calming music to help them feel safe. A closed cardboard box with a hole cut into it for entry, lined with blankets, can sometimes feel like the safest spot in the world to a frightened cat. (Put that box in a clothes closet for even more soundproofing.)

Finally, don’t forget one of the most important safety steps: make sure your pets are wearing up-to-date ID tags and that their microchip information is current. Frightened pets can bolt through doors, gates, or even windows, and sadly, shelters always see an increase in lost animals after holidays like the 4th of July.

Keep your pets safe.

If you’ve ever slipped on tile or hardwood, you know how unsettling it can feel. Now imagine being much lower to the ground, on four paws ( double the appendages that can slip) with no way to catch yourself. For some dogs, one bad slip or slide can turn even the most confident walker into a nervous, whining dog afraid to cross the room.

I’ve seen this happen many times, and experienced it in my own home. My dog had always navigated our hardwood floors without hesitation. But after one unexpected slip, she froze at doorways, whined for help, and avoided certain areas of the house entirely. The fear of falling again had completely shaken her confidence.

The problem isn’t stubbornness — it’s real anxiety. For dogs, slick surfaces like hardwood, laminate, or tile can feel like walking across ice. Without secure footing, every step becomes a source of stress. One minor fall can trigger a long-lasting fear response, especially in more sensitive or cautious dogs.

Fortunately, with some patience and a few simple changes, most dogs can regain their confidence.

• One of the best ways to start is by replacing that fearful association with positive experiences. Place treats or puzzle toys across the floor or near the area your dog avoids. The goal isn’t to force them across but to encourage small, voluntary steps forward. Keeping their mind focused on a reward helps redirect attention away from their fear.
• It’s also important not to pressure your dog to cross before they’re ready. Gently coaxing, pulling on the leash, or trying to lead them across too soon can actually reinforce their anxiety. Let your dog approach these areas at their own pace and reward every small success, even if it’s just placing one paw on the floor.
• Rugs and runners can also play a big role in giving your dog more stability. But lightweight throw rugs often make matters worse, as they can bunch up or slide underfoot. Instead, look for heavy, non-slip rugs or runners with secure backing that stay firmly in place. In my home, we laid out non-skid mats in key areas, creating a safe path for my dog as she worked her way back to crossing the hardwood with ease.
• Lighting can also play a role. Dimly lit rooms can make surfaces harder to judge, especially for dogs with aging eyes. Keeping areas well-lit helps your dog better gauge distances and surfaces, making them feel more secure about moving forward.
• You can also rearrange furniture temporarily to create narrower, more secure pathways across rooms. Reducing the wide-open floor space can make the journey feel less intimidating and give your dog stable stepping zones as they build confidence.
• Maintaining your dog’s nails is another often overlooked piece of the puzzle. Long nails can prevent the paw pads from making full contact with the floor, increasing the chance of slipping. But one of the biggest hidden culprits is actually the hair that grows between your dog’s paw pads. When this hair grows long, it acts like tiny “slippers” on an already slick surface. Regular trimming of this fur, in addition to keeping nails short, can make a noticeable difference in your dog’s traction and confidence.
• Some pet owners try traction aids, like paw wax or booties. Both have their place, but they aren’t always practical. Paw wax can create additional slipping hazards for humans if it transfers onto floors, and many dogs dislike wearing boots, often spending more time trying to kick them off than walking across the floor.

• For dogs who experience severe anxiety, veterinarians may sometimes recommend temporary anti-anxiety medication. Medication alone won’t solve the problem, but it can take the edge off your dog’s fear while you work on confidence-building exercises. It’s simply one more tool to help your dog get through the early stages of recovery.

But don’t assume a slip on the floor was merely an accident. In some cases, anxiety about slippery floors may also signal an underlying orthopedic or neurological issue, especially in older dogs. If your dog’s fear seems to come on suddenly or is accompanied by weakness, limping, or changes in gait, have your veterinarian rule out any medical causes.

The good news is that most dogs, especially younger ones, can overcome their fear with time, patience, and encouragement. My dog eventually reclaimed the hardwood floors, happily trotting from room to room again as if nothing had ever happened. Like many fears, overcoming it was not about one big breakthrough, but dozens of small victories — one careful, positive step at a time.

• Address noises and phobias: To help dogs cope with loud noises, use specialized products like anxiety wraps, calming supplements, and pheromones. Spraying pheromones on a pet bed, using plug-in pheromones in a room, or putting a pheromone collar on your canine can help reduce their anxiety. Sileo, the
  

  

  
  first FDA-approved treatment specifically for noise-sensitive dogs, is now available. It works by blocking norepinephrine, a brain chemical involved in the fight-or-flight response, calming anxiety without sedation. The gel product is administered between the gum and cheek, is absorbed quickly, and provides relief within 30 to 60 minutes. Many pet parents say it’s a game-changer for thunderstorms and fireworks. 
• Use desensitization training: Gradual exposure to noise triggers paired with positive reinforcement can help reduce fear responses over time. This may involve sitting 50 feet away from people at a dog park and moving closer as the dog gets used to seeing and hearing people, or streaming a thunderstorm and gradually increasing the volume as your dog gets used to the sounds. 
• Socialize your dogs: Dogs, especially puppies, must be continually exposed to new people and environments to build confidence and reduce fears. Use praise and treats to reinforce desirable behaviors.
• Create Fear Free® homes: Provide safe spaces, like quiet retreats, kennels, or hiding spots, where dogs can feel secure during stressful events. Let children know if a dog walks away from them, the dog is saying, “I need to be left alone right now.” Teach them to respect their dog’s wishes.
• Establish a routine and predictability: Consistent routines and environments can help reduce anxiety. Dogs thrive on routine, and if they expect things to happen a certain way—and they do—they will remain calmer and more confident about their surroundings. If you use pheromones when taking your dog to the vet, do the same thing when visiting a dog park. Otherwise, the bandana becomes associated with the vet’s office and displaces the car as the the new trigger.
• But mix it up, too! If your dog only associates car rides with trips to the vet, it can start stressing as soon as it hops in the car. Take them for joy rides, too. Head to the beach, a dog park, or just cruise to a nearby park for playtime or a stroll.   

           Whether you’re a pet parent, veterinarian, or animal lover, embracing Fear Free principles can enhance the quality of life for your dogs and strengthen the human-animal bond. For more information on creating Fear Free lives for your dogs, check out “From Fearful to Fear Free: A Positive Program to Free Your Dog from Anxiety, Fears, and Phobias,” By Dr. Marty Becker, or visit https://fearfreehappyhomes.com.
              To find a Fear Free clinic near you, visit https://fearfreepets.com/or talk to your vet about this training program for your staff.

With over 35 years of experience advocating for animals in animal welfare, Cathy Rosenthal is a seasoned expert dedicated to improving the lives of our furry friends. Explore her books and programs by visiting https://cathyrosenthal.wpenginepowered.com/petpunditpublishing/.

Credit: Cathy M. Rosenthal, The Pet Pundit

               Halloween may be a spooky holiday, but it’s the 4th of July that truly scares our pets. While every animal may panic and bolt at the sound of firecrackers or thunder, humane groups estimate that about 45% of dogs suffer from noise phobia.
              If you’ve had dogs, the odds are you have encountered at least one noise-phobic dog. I’ve had two. These dogs didn’t just hide under a blanket until thunderstorms passed. They knocked over and climbed onto furniture, dug through the carpet to escape, tore things up, and trembled so severely I feared they would collapse or have a heart attack. Dogs with the most severe symptoms can hurt themselves, so, as pet parents, we must develop a strategy to help them cope.
              Like most pet owners, I did my best to ease my dogs’ suffering. Over the years, I learned that it’s not just one thing that helps but a combination of strategies. I medicated my dogs hours before a storm or firework event. I turned on a sound machine and played a high-volume action movie or music. I used a Thundershirt and an Anxiety Wrap simultaneously. During fireworks, I kept them indoors from dusk until after 1:30 a.m. so they wouldn’t be startled while trying to relieve themselves. I even moved their kennels into my walk-in closet and draped blankets over them to further muffle the noise. Despite all this, my dogs could still hear the thunder or fireworks, just not at full volume, which reduced their reactions.

Here are a few additional tips that might help manage dogs and cats with noise phobia:

• Create a safe space: Designate a safe, quiet area in your home where your pet can retreat during loud events. This could be a basement, a closet, or a room with soundproofing materials. Make it comfortable with their favorite bed, toys, and blankets.
• Introduce relation training: This involves using positive reinforcement to reward your dog for “chilling” during non-fireworks days.
• Sensitization and counterconditioning: Gradually expose your pet to recordings of the noise at a low volume and pair it with positive experiences, like treats and playtime. Gradually increase the volume over time as your pet becomes more comfortable. Be sure to give your puppy lots of treats while doing this to create a positive association with the noise.
• Routine and exercise: Maintain a regular routine to provide a sense of normalcy. Exercise your dog before a known noise event to help them expend nervous energy and potentially be more relaxed.
• Calming products: Besides Thundershirts, pet parents can also try plug-in pheromones or pheromone collars, over-the-counter herbal and homeopathic products, calming chews, or CBD oil (if recommended by a vet) to reduce anxiety.
• White noise machines: Besides playing music or movies, consider using white noise machines or fans to help drown out the noise. Sitting with your dog or cat in a closet can also help since the clothes muffle the outdoor noise.
• Close windows and curtains: Reduce the intensity of outside noises by closing windows and drawing curtains. This can also block out visual stimuli such as fireworks flashes, which can add to your pet’s anxiety.
• Crate training: If your pet is crate trained, the crate can serve as a safe and secure place during loud events. Ensure the crate is in a quiet area and draped with a heavy blanket to muffle sounds.
• Medication: If your pet’s anxiety is severe, consult your veterinarian about prescription medications that can help manage their stress. Sileo, the first FDA-approved treatment specifically for noise-sensitive dogs, works by blocking norepinephrine, a brain chemical involved in the fight-or-flight response, calming anxiety without sedation. Administered as a gel between the gum and cheek, it is absorbed quickly and provides relief within 30 to 60 minutes.

              Cats can be just as noise-phobic as dogs, but their panicked behavior may be less noticeable. They tend to run away, hide, curl up tightly, or groom excessively—behaviors they do naturally but more so when anxious. Make sure noise-phobic cats have places to hide, like boxes and tunnels or even under the bed. You can use feline pheromones and over-the-counter products specifically for cats, as well, and the same counter-conditioning techniques to ensure kittens are exposed to a variety of sounds so they’re not as fearful as adults.
              By combining these strategies, you can help your pets feel safer and more comfortable during the fireworks holiday, reducing their anxiety and preventing them from harming themselves.

With over 35 years of experience advocating for animals in animal welfare, Cathy Rosenthal is a seasoned expert dedicated to improving the lives of our furry friends. Explore her books and programs by visiting https://cathyrosenthal.wpenginepowered.com/petpunditpublishing/.

Credit: Cathy M. Rosenthal, The Pet Pundit

Dear Cathy,

Our eight-year-old dog, Shea, has never liked getting wet, but has tolerated being bathed and getting wet to “do her business” in the rain. However, when my son tried to bring Shea upstairs to give her a bath the other day (she is 48 pounds), she started growling and snarling and hiding behind the couch. I’ve never been afraid she would bite before, but this time she sounded so vicious I wasn’t sure what she would do if we tried to get her into the bathroom.

Last night, my daughter thought Shea was going to throw-up, so she tried to get her into the bathroom on the tile. Shea growled at her and started barking and backing away from her. I’m not sure why she is suddenly so fearful of the bathroom. It has been a while since her last bath and nothing out of the ordinary occurred at that time. Is there something we can do to alleviate her fear? Will we be able to give her a bath again? — Judi, East Rockaway, New York

Dear Judi,

Bathtubs can be scary places for dogs. Think of something you are terrified to do and then imagine having to do it regularly. You are right to not force her. There is no need to stress her out this much.

It’s hard to know why she is suddenly so fearful. She may simply have reached her threshold for baths, or she may have developed a health problem, like arthritis, that is making bath time more stressful and uncomfortable.

While you can use desensitization and counter-conditioning training techniques to help her work past her fears, these techniques can take weeks or months to see results. They involve not bathing her in the tub for a while and creating a positive experience in the bathroom – like dropping a trail of treats from the hallway into the bathroom, so she associates the space with a more positive experience. But that’s no guarantee she won’t freak when you try to pick her up again for a bath.

The good news is, you can skip the traditional bath and opt for one of the less conventional cleaning methods. You can use bath pet wipes to clean her fur or try a dry dog (waterless) shampoo that doesn’t have to be washed off with water. If you think she might react to the sound of the spray, apply the dry shampoo to your hands and then spread it over her fur. Towel dry her afterward and give her treats for being a good dog. I think she will enjoy the contact and these options can get her just as clean.

If she absolutely needs a traditional bath, you can try it outside when the weather is warmer using a gentle nozzle on the hose. But if she is as afraid of water as you say, skip the hose and exchange it for a bucket of source water (so there is no running water around her), a little shampoo, and a cup of water to dip into the bucket to rinse her off. If this turns out to be too much for Shea, stick with pet wipes and dry shampoos. Bath time should be a pleasant experience for both of you.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-14ce10@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

My dog, Major, is a rescue who was 18 weeks old when we got him and is almost two years old now. I fell in love with him in his cage huddled against the wall with his head up the wall. He is so sweet and gentle.

I have taken him to dog parks where he is allowed to be with other dogs, and he loves it.  He gets so excited when he sees people, but as they approach, his tail goes between his legs, and he will back up and hide behind me or between my legs. Usually, I explain that he is a rescue and if they don’t go to him, he will slowly go to them and warm up. Some children understand this and, of course, some don’t. I have made two trips to Florida from New York with him. We stayed in hotels and my Mom’s apartment as well as went to restaurants, the rehab facility, and her house. He did well. He loved Mom immediately and always rested his head on her feet or lap. The walker and later oxygen tank didn’t bother him.

The problem is, he shies away from most people. I always feel so bad for him as he is so scared and wonder if there is anything else I can do that I haven’t thought about. I do know that he was most likely born in a kill shelter and rescued by a rescue group, transported from Tennessee to New York, but that’s all I know. 

– Lois, N. Babylon, NY

Dear Lois,

It’s always tough having a fearful dog. You never know where you can go or what you can do to help them feel more at ease in their world.

Much of a dog’s socialization period happens before he is six months old. If a dog learns to be afraid of something during that time, they might always be fearful. But through training, they can learn to tolerate situations better. So, my suggestion is to continue providing opportunities for Major to interact with people. Ask people to toss treats towards him, so he learns that being around people means good things for him.

You also can help Major relax by asking him to sit and stay when around people. Giving dogs a task to do takes up space in their brain, which can sometimes reduce their fear and anxiety. Another thing you can try is standing or positioning yourself between him and other people. That body language lets him know he doesn’t have to be on alert for you and that you will handle anyone approaching.

Remember, just like people, some dogs may not like certain people – or certain categories of people, like young children. If he is comfortable with seniors, it’s okay for them to be in his circle of friends.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-1ccbd6@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

My dog, a Yorkie-Pekinese mix, barks at every noise he hears. He goes into a frenzy when someone comes to the door. If I let them in, he is very aggressive and will even bite visitors. If I leash him, he gets worse. He is four years old. I adopted him three weeks ago from a shelter. They did not tell me that he bites. Is there something I can do to make him less frightened and less aggressive?

– Myrna, Connecticut

Dear Myrna,

You’re smart to realize that aggression can be related to fear, and your newly adopted dog might be intimidated by your visitors. Ask the animal shelter about his behavior. If he is this aggressive now, he must have shown some aggression at the shelter. Perhaps they can offer you some training support to help modify his behavior.

In the meantime, if you’re ready to roll up your sleeves, there are things you can do to reduce his aggressive behavior. Please be persistent and consistent with the training over the next several weeks. The more you practice, the quicker your dog will learn.

The first thing to do is remove him from being a door greeter. Not all dogs are built for this task. Instead, buy a wire dog kennel (large enough for him to stand, turn around and lie down in) and put it in your family room. Put him in the kennel a few times a day for about 10 minutes at a time, along with a special treat or toy, so he gets used to the space. Then, when a visitor comes over, put him in the kennel with the toy or treat. This allows your visitor to enter your home safely and keeps your dog from acting on his worst instincts.

If he barks or fusses while in the kennel, ignore him. If he settles down, let him out of his kennel on a leash (until you are sure he won’t growl or bite someone). If he gets aggressive, put him in the kennel again (no admonishments), but this time without the toy (only reward positive behavior). Over time, he should learn he won’t get to greet anyone until he behaves.

Another approach involves you modifying behaviors one trigger at a time. You can do this instead of the kennel training mentioned above or after the kennel training if you don’t want to put your dog in the kennel every time the door rings.

Have a friend come over to your home and ring the doorbell. If he gets aggressive, ask him to sit and stay. (Put a leash on him while training.) When he settles down, ask your friend to ring the bell again. If he gets up, make him sit and stay. Do this repeatedly until he sits and stays when the doorbell rings.

Next, open the door. Your dog may get up and start growling. Close the door. Ask him to sit and stay again. Repeat until you can open the door and he remains in the sit position.

Next, have your friend step into the house. If he begins growling, the friend needs to go back outside, the door needs to be closed, and your dog needs to sit and stay. Do you see the pattern? He needs to be trained at every step of the greeting process. The goal is to have him sit at the door when he hears the bell, sit when the door is opened, sit when a visitor enters, and sit until you release him. Dogs can’t do two things at once, so if he is sitting, he shouldn’t be growling.

You may have to do each step 20 times, three times a day for a few days before you can move to the next level. Be patient and make sure each behavior is solid before moving onto the next desired behavior. I know you can do this Myrna. Keep me posted.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-337218@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

We recently adopted a 2-1/2-year-old orange tabby cat from our local TNR rescue. He was rescued as a feral kitten and neutered at three months of age. Since then he has been at the rescue. Before we brought him home, I spent time with him over a three-week period. Although not overly friendly, I could pick him up, pet him, and play with him using cat toys. 

After we brought him home, his disposition changed. He hisses and swats at us if we get too close. We have him set up in the den except for his water and food, which are in the kitchen. He stays in the den all day and only comes out at night. His appetite is fine, and he uses the litter box. He is very curious and is mesmerized by the TV. He has never been in a home before and seems afraid of us and runs into the den when he sees us. 

During the first week, we could pet him occasionally. Then I accidentally touched his collar and things have gotten worse. Do you have any advice as to how long it will take to get him to trust us? We want to make this work and give him a good home.

– Diane, Green Valley Arizona

Dear Diane,

If he wasn’t handled and petted a lot at the rescue, he may be overwhelmed by the attention in his new home. Don’t touch him or pick him up right now unless he walks right onto your lap and pushes his body into your hand. It’s always best to let a cat like this come to you.

Let’s help him relax though. Buy some feline pheromones plugins at your local pet store or online and plug them in the outlets in your den and around your home. Pheromones can have a calming effect on cats. Pheromones are also available in wipes, sprays, and collars, but I don’t want you to touch him right now.

Next, find a great YouTube video featuring outdoor birds and let it run on the TV to entertain him. To engage him, get a wire dancer toy or some other toy that encourages his hunting behaviors – similar to how you played with him at the rescue. Most animals won’t play until they feel comfortable in their surroundings. Playing will help engage him and take his mind off his new surroundings for just long enough to begin to relax. The more you play, the more he relaxes. 

It may take some time for this little guy to adjust. I can’t say how much time; it could be a few weeks or a few months. But he will eventually adjust to his new home if you are patient. You sound like an amazing pet parent already, so I think he is in good hands.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-43c0ec@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal