Other animals – Cathy M. Rosenthal

How to Move with Fish: 10 Expert Tips to Keep Your Aquarium Pets Safe During a Move

Cathy Rosenthal — Wed, 25 Jun 2025 15:24:49 +0000

By Cathy M. Rosenthal

When people prepare for a move, they box up the dishes, pack the dog’s toys, and grab the cat’s carrier—but often forget one thing: their pet fish. I’ve seen it time and time again—fish are left behind or given away, assumed too fragile to transport, or meet a worse fate when tanks are drained and the fish discarded. But fish deserve better.

Take it from someone who has moved more than 35 times—and relocated every single fish tank, including freshwater and saltwater—it can be done. And it’s not nearly as hard as you might think. After all, you’re going to break down the tank anyway. Moving the fish is just a matter of doing it safely and setting things back up on the other end.

While it takes more planning than moving with a dog or cat, it’s absolutely doable with the right prep. Your fish are part of the family too—and they deserve a fresh start right alongside you. Follow these steps, and you will be well on your way to getting your pet fish to their new home.

(And the fact that you’re even reading this advice? That already impresses me.)

1. Bag Them Properly

Take water from your fish tank and fill it about 1/3 of the bag. Add your fish or several small fish. Blow air into the bag like you would a balloon. Tie a tight knot to hold the air in. Carefully place this sealed bag upside down into a second empty fish bag, so the knot or rubber band is at the bottom. Tie a knot in this bag. This way, if either bag leaks, the other still provides protection.

When moving fish, do not use sandwich baggies or zip-top bags—they’re too thin, prone to unsealing, and not designed for live fish. Instead, visit your local pet store and ask for fish transport bags, which are made from thicker plastic and designed to safely hold both water and air. Most stores will sell a few to you and may even show you how to use them.

Always double-bag your fish to prevent leaks. Place one bag inside another with the seams offset.

Here’s how to properly bag your fish for a safe trip:

Fill the bag one-third to halfway with water from your tank.
Gently place one fish (or a few compatible ones) into the bag.
Then blow regular room air (not oxygen) into the bag until it’s about two-thirds full.
Quickly twist the top of the bag several times to trap the air.
Tie a tight knot in the twisted portion (like you would close a balloon), or use rubber bands to secure it. ( I think the knot is safer.)
Then tie or rubber-band the outer bag securely as well. (This is how the pros do it and it’s especially great for long-distance or high-risk moves. Many pet owners (myself included) have often just placed one sealed bag inside another, both upright. That method still works in most short trips, especially if you’re careful. If your move is under 8 hours and you’re using the fish transport bags, either method is likely fine. However, the inverted bag method is used for a good reason. It offsets the seams and seals, so if one bag leaks (say, from a pinhole or a popped knot), the other bag isn’t compromised at the same point.It’s an extra layer of insurance, especially useful for longer moves or when transporting rare or sensitive species.

Pro tip: Use large bags when possible. More space = more air = less stress for your fish.

If you’re traveling long-distance, ask your pet store if they can fill the bags with oxygen instead of air—many can, and it can extend your fish’s safe travel time significantly.

Pro tip: Use larger bags when possible. More space = more air = less stress.

Saltwater note: Use only saltwater from your tank in transport bags for marine fish. If you’re moving corals or invertebrates, bag them individually in clean saltwater and label them clearly.

2. What to Pack with You

Carry all these items in your vehicle, not the moving truck:

Your tank (empty) and all components (filter, heater, lid, air pump)
Dechlorinator (for freshwater) or premixed saltwater (for marine setups)
Ammonia neutralizer or stress coat
Fish food
Extra fish bags and rubber bands
Battery-powered air pump
Thermometer strip
Towels or padding
Fish net
Styrofoam cooler or hard-sided cooler
Water testing kits (especially for ammonia, nitrite, and pH)
Optional: Extra buckets with lids (for transporting water or substrate), and an extension cord in case you want to set up the tank and there is no nearby outlet.

Saltwater note: Saltwater fish often need more stable environments. If you can transport 5–10 gallons of your original saltwater, it can help maintain consistency and reduce stress.

3. Label and Protect

Place your fish bags in a Styrofoam or hard-sided cooler for insulation and protection from bumps. Line the bottom with a towel and clearly label:

“LIVE FISH – FRAGILE – THIS SIDE UP”

Keep it upright and don’t stack anything on top. Keep this container in the vehicle with you, not in the back of a truck or trunk.

4. Control the Temperature

Weather matters when moving fish. Spring and Fall are the easist times to move with fish. But you can move in more extreme conditions.

In winter, keep fish in the heated cab of your vehicle. Crack heat packs carefully—they can get very hot—and always wrap them in towels before placing them near (never on) the bags. (This bears repeating: Never place heat directly on any of the bags.
In summer, keep them shaded and transport in your air-conditioned vehicle. Avoid direct sunlight and never place them in the trunk.

Tip: Stick a peel-and-stick thermometer to the outside of a bag so you can monitor the temperature during the move.

5. Limit Time in Transit

Most fish can safely travel 8–12 hours in transport bags. If your trip is longer:

Bring extra dechlorinated water (or premixed saltwater) to refresh the bags as needed. Open the bag, add the water, blow air into the bag, and retie it securely.
Many fish stores can fill your bags with oxygen—this can extend the safe time to 24–48 hours. Call ahead to check availability.

6. Skip Feeding Before the Trip

Do not feed your fish 24 hours before moving. Less food means less waste, keeping the water cleaner and preventing harmful ammonia buildup. Your fish can safely miss a meal or two.

7. Move the Tank Carefully

Drain and clean the tank, but don’t toss everything.

Save filter media, gravel/sand, and decorations in sealed containers filled with tank water. This preserves the beneficial bacteria needed for cycling. First, you’ll need the tank as soon as you arrive. Second, moving trucks typically have poor suspension, and the constant jostling can cause the tank to crack or loosen the seals around its edges. Even a hairline crack can lead to leaks later. Transporting the tank gently and securely in your vehicle helps ensure it arrives intact and ready to reassemble.
Saltwater note: Pack your live rock and any corals in water from the tank. Keep them moist, dark, and warm. If you can transport some of your live sand, even better—it helps restart the nitrogen cycle in the new setup.

8. Bring Backup Gear

A battery-powered air pump is a smart backup. It oxygenates the water if your trip takes longer than expected or you’re delayed in warm weather. They’re inexpensive, widely available, and very useful.

9. Reintroduce Slowly

When you arrive:

Set up your tank as soon as possible with lukewarm, dechlorinated water, or pre-mixed saltwater for marine tanks.
Check the temperature of the water and make sure it’s within the range for your particular species of fish.
Float the sealed bags for 15–30 minutes to equalize temperatures.
Slowly add tank water into the bags so your fish adjust to the new environment.
Gently release the fish—and pour in the bag water too. It contains familiar bacteria that can help reestablish the cycle.
Use your water test kits to ensure parameters are safe.

Saltwater note: Ensure salinity matches closely before reintroduction. A slow acclimation process (like drip acclimation) is recommended for sensitive saltwater species and invertebrates.

10. Temporary Setups Can Work

This temporary set up is larger than you might use in your home. But it gives you an idea of how to use a plastic tote if you needed a temporary set up before setting up your tank.

Can’t set up the main tank right away? Don’t panic. A clean plastic tote with a heater and filter makes a great temporary home.

Use the water from the transport bags to reduce stress.
Add a water conditioner (for freshwater) or a bacterial supplement (for either type) to support your fish.
Limit this setup to just a few days, if possible.

Unless you’re moving overseas or face unavoidable restrictions, please don’t leave your fish behind. With a little extra planning, your fish can safely make the journey and thrive in their new home. And when you see them happily swimming again in their tank, you’ll know: it was absolutely worth it.

The Reality of Getting Long Lived Pets for Kids

Cathy Rosenthal — Mon, 09 Dec 2024 20:17:52 +0000

By Cathy M. Rosenthal

Dear Cathy,
My daughter got a red-eared slider for her 7th birthday. She’s now eight-years-old. Should I be worried about her getting salmonella? And how long will this turtle live?
— Rikki

Dear Rikki,

Red-eared sliders are fascinating and beautiful turtles, making them popular pets, but their long lifespan—often 20 to 40 years with proper care—requires a significant, long-term commitment.

Red-eared sliders are fascinating pets, and they are often chosen for their quiet nature and ease of care. However, they come with a surprising twist—longevity. Red-eared sliders can live 20 to 40 years or more with proper care. For many, the commitment to their care, including regular tank cleaning, feeding, and ensuring they have a proper environment, can be overwhelming.

Many parents find themselves unexpectedly stuck caring for these long-living pets when their children head off to college. Life moves fast, and the realities of dorm living, tight schedules, and small apartments often make it difficult for young adults to bring their turtles to college.

Even if your daughter takes her turtle to college, life keeps changing. She may graduate, get married, and have kids—and each of these milestones brings new challenges in pet care. To be honest, most turtles do not remain with their original owners for more than a few years. Instead, as their care requirements and lifespans become clear, turtles are often surrendered to friends, animal shelters, rescue groups. Or worse yet, they are released into the wild, where they can disrupt local ecosystems or struggle to survive or they simply die from improper care.

If your daughter already has received this turtle as a birthday gift, though, let’s focus on what it takes to care for these creatures properly in the here and now and how to prevent salmonella.

The Basics of Turtle Care

Red-eared sliders are captivating and hardy creatures, but they are more complex to care for than many realize. Their needs go beyond a simple tank and occasional feeding. Here are the essentials:

1. A Proper Habitat

Tank Size: Red-eared sliders need a spacious tank, as they can grow up to 12 inches in length. A single adult turtle requires at least a 75-gallon tank, and larger is always better.
Clean, Filtered Water: Proper filtration is crucial to maintain water quality and reduce the risk of infections. Regular water changes are also necessary.
Basking Area: They need a dry area to climb out of the water, warm themselves, and absorb UVB rays. UVB lighting is essential for their shell and bone health, preventing metabolic bone disease.
Temperature Control: Water should be kept at 75-85°F, and the basking area should range from 85-90°F.

2. A Balanced Diet

Variety is Key: A healthy diet includes high-quality commercial turtle pellets, fresh vegetables like leafy greens, and occasional treats like insects, earthworms, or feeder fish.
Calcium and Vitamins: A calcium supplement with vitamin D3 is important to ensure proper shell development.

3. Regular Cleaning

Tank Maintenance: Red-eared sliders are messy eaters, and waste can quickly build up, leading to poor water quality. Filters should be cleaned regularly, and partial water changes should be done weekly.
Spot Cleaning: Remove uneaten food and debris daily to prevent bacterial growth.

While turtles might not demand daily walks or cuddles, they require consistent care and attention to thrive. Their habitat needs frequent monitoring to ensure proper water quality and lighting, and their diet must be varied and balanced.

Salmonella Concerns

You also asked about salmonella. It’s true that all reptiles and amphibians can carry this bacteria, but the risk can be managed with a few simple precautions:

Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after touching the turtle or its habitat.
Don’t clean the turtle’s tank or accessories in sinks or tubs where food is prepared or people bathe. If possible, clean these items outside.
Disinfect any shared surfaces afterward if necessary.
Keep the turtle away from food preparation and eating areas.

Turtles, like red-eared sliders, can make wonderful companions, but they deserve thoughtful care and consideration. By being realistic about their needs and planning for their future, you can ensure the best outcome for your daughter’s pet—and your family.

Note: For anyone considering giving a pet as a gift, please check out Pets as Gifts: To Give or Not to Give – A More Thoughtful Approach.

Have a pet question? Send it to Cathy at moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-10d891@yhtac. Visit her website at cathyrosenthal.com.

Are humans open-minded enough to recognize animal intelligence when we see it?

Cathy Rosenthal — Fri, 08 Nov 2024 22:02:50 +0000

By Cathy M. Rosenthal

When Frans De Waal’s book, Are We Smart Enough to Know How Smart Animals Really Are? came out, I couldn’t wait to delve into his insights and explore how he might reshape our understanding of animal intelligence. De Waal, widely regarded as the world’s premier primatologist, challenges our deeply ingrained tendencies to measure animal cognition by comparing it to humans. “We always sit at the top of that ladder,” he says, pointing out the limitations of such an anthropocentric view.

For centuries, animals have been categorized as either instinct-driven machines or rudimentary learners, but De Waal argues that this perspective fundamentally underestimates their capacities. “Each species has its own requirements for living,” he explains. “I am not denying that humans aren’t special, but our brain is not that fundamentally different from a monkey or rat. Mammal brains operate in similar ways.”

This idea has profound implications for how we view our place in the animal kingdom. De Waal’s research reveals that what we consider uniquely human traits, such as morality, empathy, and cooperation, are also present in the social systems of other animals, particularly primates. In his book, he emphasizes that human morality wouldn’t exist without its evolutionary building blocks—fairness, reciprocity, and concern for others—traits evident in chimpanzee and monkey societies.

“The building blocks of morality are not nice or good behaviors,” he writes, “but rather mental and social capacities for constructing societies in which shared values constrain individual behavior through a system of approval and disapproval.” In other words, morality isn’t exclusive to humans; it’s rooted in social interactions that allow groups to thrive; a fact that should make us reconsider how we judge the intelligence of other species.

De Waal never set out to study fairness, but his research brought this concept to light time and again. “Mammals are sensitive to what others receive,” he notes. A striking example comes from a woman he knew with a Chihuahua and a Great Dane. “The Chihuahua always insisted on getting the same amount of food as the Great Dane,” he recalls. Anyone who shares their life with pets can relate. My own dogs never fail to notice if one receives even a crumb more than the other and are quick to express their discontent over any perceived injustice.

De Waal also addresses our tendency to misjudge animal intelligence when it doesn’t conform to human expectations. For instance, he recounts a story about a friend upset over a dog intelligence breed list that ranked border collies first and Afghan Hounds last. The friend argued that the ranking wasn’t a measure of intelligence but of obedience. She said, Afghans are “independent-minded, stubborn, and unwilling to follow orders.” Her observation is spot on. Intelligence comes in many forms, and it doesn’t always align with a human-centric view of compliance.

This misunderstanding extends to cats as well. People often dismiss cats as less intelligent because they interact with us differently than dogs. Yet cat parents know better. Cats possess a unique intelligence, often demonstrating problem-solving skills, emotional awareness, and adaptability in ways that rival their canine counterparts. As De Waal points out, dogs and cats are in our homes precisely because “we have an emotional connection with them. They respond to us, and we respond to them. That gives us comfort.” This mutual bond underscores not only their emotional intelligence but also their deep integration into our lives.

While we may form stronger emotional connections with mammals, De Waal’s work challenges us to expand our perspective. What about fish, birds, or reptiles? Are we simply blind to their intelligence because it doesn’t manifest in ways familiar to us? If we judge animals solely by their similarity to humans, I think we risk missing the complexity of their minds and the richness of their worlds.

Are humans open-minded enough to recognize animal intelligence when we see it?

De Waal suggests that we are only beginning to scratch the surface. As someone who advocates for humane care and the understanding of animals, I see this as a call to action. The more we learn about animal cognition, the more it becomes clear that intelligence takes many forms, each shaped by the needs and experiences of the species. Recognizing and respecting these differences is not just a scientific challenge—it’s a moral one. How we perceive animals influences how we treat them, and De Waal’s work reminds us to approach this relationship with humility, curiosity, and compassion.

Miniature horses as pet therapy animals

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:15 +0000

Equine therapy has long been recognized for its numerous physical, emotional, and psychological benefits, offering a unique form of healing that combines the calming presence of horses with purposeful, therapeutic interactions.

Dear Cathy,
We wanted to tell you about a new pet that is making the rounds in the pet therapy world – miniature horses. We have 30 minis and have been working with them for 25 years. Miniature horses live about 25 years, but many of ours are into their 30’s.
We believe the minis are ideal as pet therapy animals for many reasons. They are quiet, intelligent, and well-behaved. They can go most anywhere, even in elevators, and have no hesitation in navigating the slippery floors of a long-term care facility. If they poop, it can be handled with a minimum effort. They are curious and want to greet each visitor. And they don’t need a large paddock.
Some people visit our herd at our farm, where we cater to senior groups with varying needs and children with special needs. Many of the special needs children who visit seem calmed by the horses. We also take the horses to visit various senior facilities. The seniors always want to leave their rooms to touch and groom our horses. Even those who no longer communicate may smile or touch a horse.
In addition, we take our horses to some facilities for extended periods, where they are looked after by the faculty staff and become part of their recreation programs. (Our programs are discussed in more detail in “The Big Book of Miniature Horses” by Kendra Gale). Our horses are treated kindly, and the frequent handling has a payoff. They thrive on the added attention and come home from those facilities calm, relaxed, and well-groomed. These programs ensure regular working of the horses and, ultimately, better conditioning and performance.
We realize miniature horses are not for everyone, but we wanted to let you know that they do make wonderful therapy pets, driving horses, and equine friends. – Pete and Terry, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Dear Pete and Terry,
Thank you for sharing your incredible work with miniature horses. It’s fascinating to learn how these intelligent and gentle animals are making such a difference in the lives of so many people. Miniature horses bring a unique presence to the world of pet therapy. Your description of their adaptability and calm demeanor is compelling. Their ability to navigate environments like elevators and slippery nursing home floors with ease while remaining curious and eager to engage with visitors makes them ideal for therapy work. The fact that they can bring so much joy to seniors, even encouraging those who rarely communicate to smile or reach out, speaks volumes about their therapeutic impact.
It’s particularly heartwarming to hear how they connect with individuals in nursing homes and long-term care facilities. Animals often bridge emotional and social gaps, offering companionship and comfort that’s hard to replicate. For residents who may feel isolated, the opportunity to touch, groom, or simply sit with any animal can be transformative, fostering a sense of connection and well-being. Equine therapy has long been recognized for its numerous physical, emotional, and psychological benefits, offering a unique form of healing that combines the calming presence of horses with purposeful, therapeutic interactions. Traditionally used in outdoor settings like riding programs, equine therapy helps improve physical strength, balance, and coordination while fostering emotional growth and mental well-being. The mere presence of horses has been shown to reduce stress, lower blood pressure, and improve mood, making them invaluable partners in therapy programs for individuals facing challenges such as anxiety, depression, PTSD, autism spectrum disorders, and more. Their longevity, intelligence, and gentle nature make them a wonderful addition to the growing field of animal-assisted therapy.
On a related note, for anyone inspired by your story to consider adding a miniature horse—or any pet—to their family, it’s essential to ensure the decision is well thought out. Pets, whether big or small, are lifelong commitments. For those unsure, gifting a book about pet care, a farm visit, or even a gift card for supplies is a thoughtful way to encourage someone’s interest while giving them the time to prepare.
Thank you again for sharing your story.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-7c7f5a@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Don’t get a rabbit just because it’s Easter

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:15 +0000

Dear Cathy,

I have four pet rabbits of my own and am always looking for ways to spread education about rabbit care, since it’s not as simple as people realize. I don’t know how familiar you are with rabbits, but I have more of a request than a question: Could you talk about why it’s a bad idea to give rabbits as an Easter gift to children? I am a volunteer with the Long Island Rabbit Rescue Group and we always get an influx of rescues after the cute Easter bunny grows up and the child no longer wants it. We’re always campaigning to prevent rabbits as gifts in the first place. Education is key to making change for the better for all animals.

– Diana Kronenberg, Long Island, New York

Dear Diana,

I am happy to talk about why one shouldn’t get a rabbit around Easter as well as how great rabbits are as pets if placed in the right home.

Let’s talk Easter first. When given a choice between buying a live bunny or a plush rabbit toy for a young child, parents need to go with the plush toy (or chocolate bunny). Rabbits are not easy pets to care for and need adult caregivers to thrive. They require as much care as a dog or cat – and cost as much as a dog to care for over their lifetimes, according to the House Rabbit Society.

In addition, rabbits can become aggressive around sexual maturity, if not sterilized. And, they can live eight to 14 years. Today’s impulse gift for an eight-year-old child could still be in the family long after the child has finished college.

Rabbits are “prey” animals, which means they will bolt in fear if they think their lives are in danger. Kids or animals in the home, who are loud, lively and longing to chase them, can literally scare a rabbit to death.

During humane society summer camps, I used to teach kids how to behave around rabbits by having them sit in a circle to quietly observe the rabbits sitting in the center. If the kids startled the rabbits, the observation was over until the next day. To their credit, most kids can sit still for 20 minutes, but they also get tired and lose interest quickly. The next day, the kids got to feed the rabbits, which sustained their interest a little longer, but not by much. Kids will lose interest in their pet rabbits too, which means rabbits are often neglected or given up altogether.

While rabbits are the third most acquired pet, they are also the third most relinquished – and euthanized – pet. Sadly, people may dump their pet rabbits in the woods thinking they can survive, but that’s a death sentence for them. Unlike wild rabbits, pet rabbits have no survival skills and can quickly succumb to starvation or become a food source for other animals if abandoned.

Very few animal shelters accept rabbits, so most homeless rabbits are cared for by rescue groups who try to find good homes for them, which brings me to my second point. Rabbits are actually great pets when placed in quiet homes with the right people. They are affectionate with their families and can be litter box trained, like a cat, so they can hop around the house.

If anyone reading this is serious about getting a rabbit, talk to rescue groups, like the Long Island Rabbit Rescue Group, about rabbit care. They may even let you foster a rabbit to see if it’s the right type of pet for you.

If you do your homework, are ready to make a decade-long commitment, and decide a rabbit is the best pet for your family, then you might be what these rabbit rescue groups are looking for in a rabbit parent.

Visit the House Rabbit Society at rabbits.org for more information and to find rabbit rescue groups in your city or state. Please don’t get a rabbit just because it’s Easter.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-4a9961@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Recycle fish tank water for your garden

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:15 +0000

Dear Cathy,

When I change the water from my fish tank, I toss the dirty water onto the lawn, not into my sink. The question is, will this water be good for my indoor plants?

– Bart Varacchi, Holbrook, New York

Dear Bart,

Absolutely! If you have a filter on your fish tank and the ammonia levels in the water are normal, go ahead and recycle that fish waste by dumping it onto your lawn and plants. Your plants will love it.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-4a1c1a@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Wild rabbit population increase

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:14 +0000

Rabbit populations naturally fluctuate based on the availability of food, shelter, and the presence of predators.

Dear Cathy,
In my daily walks in my neighborhood, I’ve noticed an increase in the number of wild rabbits. They are especially numerous early mornings and evenings. Is there an explanation for the rise in their population? — Andy, East Northport, New York

Dear Andy,
I reached out to Volunteers for Wildlife in Locust Valley, New York, about your observation. They mentioned they haven’t noted a significant population boom of rabbits on Long Island. However, rabbit populations naturally fluctuate based on the availability of food, shelter, and the presence of predators. Rabbits tend to thrive in areas with plenty of grass and clover for feeding, as well as places to hide from potential predators. If your neighborhood offers these resources and has few natural predators, it’s an ideal habitat for them. Since rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they’re most active at dawn and dusk, your morning and evening walks are perfectly timed to spot these adorable critters.

Take some time to enjoy their presence—they’re a wonderful reminder of the wildlife we share our neighborhoods with!

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-4758bb@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Canary has stopped singing

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:08 +0000

Dear Cathy,

My seven-year-old white canary hasn’t sung in over a year. It used to be beautiful. I’ve not made any significant changes to his routine. His diet is the same, a combination of commercial canary bird seed, long seed, egg treats, and fresh greens and fruit. I play two different CDs of canary song, and the most this elicits is a note or two. I hope you can provide me with a few hints to restore his song.

– Kevin, Bethpage, New York

Dear Cathy,

Health is always the first concern, but I am going to assume an avian veterinarian has examined your canary and told you there are no apparent health issues.

My next question is, could your canary be a female? Some females sing when they are young but stop after their first molt. These same hens then sing sporadically after that, but never with the consistency of males.

Next, look at his cage. He should live in a medium-sized cage (not too small, not too big) with plenty of perches to exercise throughout the day. He should be in a quiet location, free of drafts and with lots of natural sunlight, which is essential in keeping these songbirds from getting depressed.

Add a few more vegetables and fruits to your canary’s diet, like raw dandelion greens, raw collard greens, broccoli, apples, bananas, oranges, pears, peaches, and cherries. If he does sing, even just a little, give him some fruit to mark the behavior and reinforce the habit.

Finally, keep your bird’s nails clipped. Sometimes, if the nails get too long and uncomfortable, a canary will stop singing.

Let me know if any of these suggestions helps re-engage your bird in song again.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-32047a@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Got allergies around a rabbit? Look at the rabbit’s food first

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:07 +0000

Dear Cathy,

I just read your piece on adopting rabbits. Another issue worth mentioning which my family encountered is allergies to Timothy hay. My husband had to wear arm-length rubber gloves when handling the hay, and the dust kept us sneezing. Rabbits eat a ton of hay, so if you’re sensitive to it, think twice.

— Chris, Manhasset, New York

Dear Chris,

Some people think if they sneeze or have a runny nose, they might be allergic to their rabbit. But in many instances, people with seasonal allergies may be allergic to their rabbit’s food instead.

Timothy hay is an important food source for the digestive health of small pets, like rabbits, guinea pigs, and chinchillas. But, it’s also a trigger for people with seasonal grass allergies. So, rabbits and other small animals, who eat Timothy hay, may not be a good fit for every home.

Kudos to your husband for finding a way to avoid contact with the hay while still providing your rabbit with proper nutrition.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-3f411b@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal

Don’t buy a rabbit- adopt from rabbit rescue groups or shelters

Cathy Rosenthal — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 12:56:07 +0000

Dear Cathy,

I read your column about rabbits and whether families should buy them for Easter. There are many rabbits languishing at the Animal Care Centers in New York City (ACCNYC). It would be so much better to adopt than to buy. They have a whole room full of rabbits that people can go and look and hold and bond with them. There are bonded pairs of rabbits to adopt, and all animals are microchipped, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered before adoption.

– Reisner, New York

Dear Reisner,

I did advocate for readers to adopt from rabbit rescue groups and animal shelters but am happy to give another plug to adoption versus buying. Sadly, many baby bunnies are bought and then taken to rescue groups a year later when people lose interest in them. If someone is willing to adopt an older rabbit, it’s probably because they really want one. Adopting a bonded pair gives rabbits a friend, which makes them happier in their homes.

As you point out, rescue groups and animal shelters vaccinate, microchip, and spay and neuter rabbits as part of the adoption package. Rabbits reach maturity between six- to nine-months-old, depending on breed. If not fixed, they can become aggressive and will reproduce when kept in male/female pairings. Females can get pregnant within minutes of giving birth, and their gestation period is only 28 to 31 days.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, children’s author, syndicated pet columnist, and pet expert with more than 30 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-504188@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal