By Cathy M. Rosenthal

I recently received a letter from a reader named Melanie that reminded me just how intelligent our pets really are, and how much they rely on us to help them understand the world.

Melanie shared that she’s in her 80s, has had many animals over the years, and now lives with two beloved rescue dogs, Millie and SnugglePuff. These two little “she-devils” (her words, not mine!) are her constant companions and bring her joy and comfort every day.

Here’s what really stood out: SnugglePuff, her poodle/cocker mix, has a favorite toy that Melanie calls “purple stuffie.” When Melanie asks her to get it, SnugglePuff heads to the toy box and brings it right to her. Millie, her terrier/poodle mix, also has a favorite toy—a Smurf stuffie—that she recognizes and brings to her too.

Melanie asked: If dogs are colorblind, how do they know which toy is which? Is it smell?

Great question, and it gets to the heart of something I think more people need to appreciate:

Dogs don’t just learn commands. They learn language.

While dogs are colorblind, that doesn’t mean they see in black and white. Dogs can actually see some colors—mainly blues and yellows. They don’t see red or green the way we do, so something like a “purple stuffie” probably looks more like a shade of blue or gray to them. But here’s the key: SnugglePuff isn’t choosing the toy because it’s purple. She’s choosing it because “purple stuffie” is the name Melanie gave it—and she’s made that connection through repetition, praise, and play.

Now, dogs do have an extraordinary sense of smell—far better than ours—and yes, SnugglePuff can likely smell which toy is which. But when Melanie says, “Get the purple stuffie,” SnugglePuff isn’t identifying the toy by scent. She’s learned what that toy looks like and what those words mean. Even if it were freshly washed or smelled different, she would still recognize it because of its shape, texture, and the name attached to it.

That’s language. And it’s amazing that dogs can understand and make those kinds of connections.

Dogs don’t understand sentences or grammar (although some dog parents might argue otherwise), but they absolutely can learn vocabulary when we consistently assign meaning to those words. Sit. Stay. Ball. Walk. Cookie. Treat. They hear it enough, and they get it. In fact, most dogs can learn 100+ words with consistent training and interaction.

Want to be truly amazed? Look up Chaser, the Border Collie—a dog who learned the names of more than 1,000 toys. Chaser could not only identify each one by name, but could even group them by category. He even figured out a new toy based on the fact that he had never heard the name before. It’s mind-blowing. There’s a great PBS clip where Neil deGrasse Tyson interviews Chaser’s owner, and it’s well worth watching.

The point is: dogs are always listening. And when we invite them into our daily language—when we name their toys, talk to them during routines, or reward them for recognizing words—we’re giving them the tools to connect with us even more.

So yes, Melanie, your dogs aren’t identifying toys by color or smell. They’re identifying them by language—by the words you’ve taken the time to teach them.  The more you talk to them, train them, and teach them, the smarter they become—and the more they understand about the world around them and their place in it.”

By Cathy M. Rosenthal

If you’ve ever called your dog with love in your voice — maybe even crouched down, arms open, hoping for a joyful reunion — only to watch him trot the other way or ignore you completely, don’t worry. You’re not alone.

Teaching a dog to come when called (called “recall” in dog training) is one of the most important skills you can teach, but it takes time, consistency, and a few tricks. The good news is: dogs are social. If you become the fun—the party, the source of treats, praise, or play, they’ll want to follow you.

Let’s start with the golden rule: Never use “come” as a punishment. If your dog hears “come” and thinks, “Uh-oh, something bad is going to happen,” he’ll stop responding. Instead, we want him to think: “Come = something great is about to happen!”

Start Small and Make It Fun

Begin indoors with no distractions. Say your dog’s name in a cheerful tone. Then say “Come!” and take a few steps backward or turn and walk away. Dogs naturally follow movement, so turning away and walking gives your dog something to follow.. When your dog heads toward you—even if slowly—get excited! When he reaches you, praise and reward him with a treat or toy. Make a big deal about it. You want him to think, “That was worth it!”

And here’s something important: Whenever possible, say “come” and then leave together. This means that instead of calling your dog and then staying in the same spot, you call your dog and then walk away—into the house, across the yard, back to the car. Dogs are more likely to follow when we’re moving. It also teaches them that “come” means go with me, not just run to me and stop. You’re building a habit of following, not just arriving.

Clickers, Marker Words, and Multi-Dog Households

To speed up training, you can use a clicker—a small plastic tool that makes a distinct clicking sound. The click marks the exact moment your dog does something right and helps him learn faster. It’s a simple formula: cue → behavior → click → treat. That sound tells your dog, “Yes! That’s what I wanted.”

If you don’t want to use a clicker, a marker word works just as well. A marker word is something you say (like “Bingo!”) the moment your dog does the right thing, followed by a treat. It should be something you wouldn’t normally say in everyday conversation, so your dog learns to associate that word with getting it right.

Marker words are especially helpful in multi-dog households. Each dog can have their own unique marker word—so they know whose turn it is. When I had three dogs, I used:

• “Bingo!” for one

• “Awesome!” for another

• “Yummy!” for the third

This way, everyone stayed focused, and I wasn’t surrounded by three drooling dogs every time I trained just one. Each of them learned to wait for their special word before expecting a treat, and it made group training a whole lot smoother.

A Few Final Tips

• Practice indoors first, then move outside with a long leash.

• Always reward, even if your dog took his sweet time getting there.

• Don’t overuse “come” only when something fun is ending , like leaving the park or going in the crate. Mix it into everyday routines. Call your dog before tossing a ball, before feeding dinner or giving a treat, or just to give a scratch behind the ears. That way, “come” always leads to something positive.

You can also play recall games to keep it fun. See the Top 5 Recalls Games to Make “Come” Fun below.

With time, your dog will learn that “come” means fun, treats, praise, and being close to you. He won’t come because he has to—he’ll come because he wants to.

And someday soon, your prince (or princess) will come… the moment you call.

Top 5 Recall Games to Make “Come” Fun

Teach your dog to come while keeping things playful!

1. Ping-Pong Pup
Have two people stand several feet apart. Take turns calling your dog (“Cookie, come!”), and reward her every time she trots over. Gradually increase the distance. This builds speed and excitement!

2. Hide-and-Seek
While your dog is distracted, hide behind a door, couch, or tree and call “come!” Praise and treat like crazy when she finds you. Great for building focus and fun.

3. Recall + Toss
Call your dog, and the moment she reaches you, toss her favorite ball or toy. Now “come” means the game starts with you—not ends because of you.

4. Name That Dog
If you have multiple dogs, practice recall using each dog’s name plus their marker word (e.g., “Max, come!”). Helps prevent confusion and strengthens name recognition.

5. Chase Me!
Call your dog, then turn and jog or skip a few steps away. Most dogs can’t resist chasing a moving human. When she catches up, reward with praise or a treat.

Dear Cathy,

Six months ago, I adopted Max, a three-year-old mixed breed dog. My vet suspected he’d been poorly socialized and possibly neglected, and he was terrified of nearly everything—getting into a crate, riding in the car, meeting other dogs on walks, even being touched. For the first two weeks, he was also aggressive toward our resident dog. But with time, patience, and a lot of positive reinforcement, Max has overcome almost all of his fears. He’s turned into a wonderful little companion.

There’s just one problem left: he’s predatory toward our cat, Lily.

Early on, his body language around her was intense—hard eyes, stalking behavior, and laser-focused staring. I immediately put up a baby gate and kept him tethered when Lily was roaming the house. I’ve worked hard to make their encounters positive, rewarding both pets with treats when they’re calm. Sometimes Max seems fine—if Lily strolls by slowly, he may let her sniff him and even turn his head away, which feels like progress.

But last night, Lily got startled and bolted. Max instantly locked in on her and became highly aroused and predatory again. After six months, I’m wondering—will he ever learn to relax around her? Or is this who he is? What more can I do?

— Diane, Tucson, Arizona

Dear Diane,

First of all, I want to applaud you for the care and thoughtfulness you’ve shown so far. You’ve done all the right things—tethering Max, using gates, supervising their interactions, and rewarding calm behavior. It’s clear that Max has come a long way, and that’s a credit to your patience and training.

The goal now is to continue shifting Max’s focus away from Lily and onto you. Teach him to “sit” or “lie down” every time Lily enters the room. If he looks at her, call his name and reward him when he looks at you instead. Then redirect him with a favorite toy or chew. This keeps his mind busy and teaches him that calm behavior around Lily leads to good things.

You should also work on a solid “stay” command. Start by asking Max to stay while Lily moves at a distance—walking across the room, jumping onto a chair, or stretching. If he holds his position, reward generously. Over time, you can work up to moments when she makes quicker movements, using the “stay” cue to prevent him from reacting. Always keep Max on a leash or tether during these exercises.

That said, as long as Max is showing signs of predatory interest—intense staring, stiff posture, tail held high, low stalking movements—there’s always a risk. Even if he seems relaxed most of the time, those behaviors are red flags. Until those disappear completely, supervision is critical.

When you’re not home or unable to actively monitor, I strongly recommend keeping Max and Lily fully separated—either on different floors or in different rooms with closed doors or secured baby gates. It’s not just about managing behavior; it’s about making sure Lily feels safe in her own home.

Some dogs have a prey drive that’s deeply ingrained and hard to fully extinguish, especially when it comes to fast-moving animals like cats. But given Max’s overall progress, I’m hopeful. Keep working on those redirection and impulse control skills, and give it more time—measured in months and years, not weeks.

And if you ever feel unsure or want more support, working with a certified positive reinforcement dog trainer—especially one with experience in dog-cat dynamics—can make a big difference. Find one that specializes in positive reinforcement.

You’re doing a great job, being very observant of Max’s body language. Keep up the good work.

— Cathy M. Rosenthal

I recently visited a friend who shares her home with three male dogs: a ten-year-old Chihuahua and two younger mixed-breed males, around two and three years old. The dogs, though individually affectionate and well-loved, weren’t exactly getting along. In fact, tensions in the house had escalated to frequent squabbles, especially when they all tried to get her attention at once.

Jealousy between dogs is more common than people think. When multiple pets vie for affection, it can result in guarding behaviors, pushy posturing, and even outright fighting. In this household, I watched how the younger dogs would crowd the older one whenever she spoke to him, and how quickly innocent moments turned into loud outbursts.

The first thing I asked her was whether all the dogs were neutered. Intact males, especially in the same household, can be prone to status-related aggression. Fortunately, all three had been neutered, which can help reduce hormone-driven conflict, but clearly, more needed to be done.

Here are some strategies I shared with her on managing dogs in a multi-dog home:

1. Manage the environment.

Start by identifying when and where your dogs tend to clash. Is it when food drops on the floor? When they’re all crowded together on the couch? If so, prevent those triggers: block access to the kitchen, feed them separately, or make the couch off-limits altogether. Prevention is your first line of defense. (With my dogs, all meals and treats were given in their individual kennels. No exceptions.)

2. Make sure every dog has their own space.

Whether it’s a kennel or a dedicated bed, each dog needs a place they can retreat to. In multi-dog households, kennel training is especially helpful. If you teach them to go to their designated kennels when you say “kennel,” it becomes much easier to manage situations that start to escalate.

3. Avoid playing favorites.

It’s easy to unconsciously pet the dog who’s closest or most insistent, but this can increase jealousy. Try offering attention in equal measure, and reward them when they are all calm, not barking, crowding, or jumping. People often forget that calm behavior can be trained and reinforced, just like “sit” or “stay.”

4. Establish clear, consistent rules.

Dogs thrive on structure. If one dog has to sit before getting a treat, they all do. If one goes outside through a certain door, so do the others. And ideally, you go first through a door, then the dogs follow. Consistency helps reduce competition and confusion, and teaches them to look to you for direction.

5. Use your voice effectively.

Sometimes, our tone sends unintended signals. A soft or overly sweet voice may not convey authority, which can leave dogs uncertain about the leadership dynamic. In multi-dog households, a calm, confident tone helps reinforce your role and creates a sense of order to the group dynamics.

6. Provide enough exercise and mental stimulation.

Tired dogs are often better-behaved dogs. Make daily walks a priority—either together or separately, depending on how well they handle the leash. (There are some great multi-dog leashes on the market that help prevent tangling.) Use puzzle feeders or short training sessions to burn off mental energy, and give them something constructive to focus on throughout the day, like scent games, chew toys, or practicing basic commands. Mental engagement is essential.

7. Try calming aids.

Plug-in canine pheromone diffusers can help promote a more peaceful environment. I recommended placing one in the common areas of the home to help take the edge off everyday tensions. There are also pheromone collars, but using one for every dog can get expensive, so the plug-in version tends to be more practical in multi-dog households.

Of course, not all tension can be resolved through management alone. If the fighting escalates, becomes more frequent, or causes injury, it’s time to bring in professional help. A certified dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist can assess the dynamics and offer more targeted guidance. In some cases, short-term medication may be recommended to support calmer behavior during training.

Back at my friend’s house, the changes didn’t happen overnight. But once she started managing the triggers, offering more exercise, and setting clearer boundaries, things slowly improved. The house isn’t perfect—whose is?—but the dogs now have more peace, fewer squabbles, and more of what they really want: time with her.

Top 5 Signs Dogs Aren’t Getting Along (and What You Can Do)

Not all canine conflicts look like a fight. Here are five signs your dogs may be at odds with the other dogs in the home and what you can do to address an issue.
1. Blocking behavior.
One dog stands in a doorway, hallway, or near you to prevent another dog from passing. This subtle body language signals control and can escalate into conflict.
Remedy: Teach dogs to “wait” or “move” on cue, and reward them for sharing space calmly.

2. Hard staring or stiff posture.
A fixed stare, a tense body, or mildly raised hackles along the back can be an early warning sign of brewing tension.
Remedy: Gently interrupt with a recall, treat toss, or redirect them to another room before it escalates.

3. One dog always retreats.
If one dog frequently leaves the room, hides, or avoids interactions with another dog, it may be feeling bullied or unsafe.
Remedy: Give the more submissive dog safe, separate time to relax, and supervise interactions to build confidence.

4. Resource guarding.
Growling, snapping, or stiffening around toys, food bowls, treats, or even people can indicate competition and rising tension.
Remedy: Feed dogs separately and remove high-value items unless supervised. Reinforce polite behavior around shared resources.

5. Constant interruption.
If one dog won’t let another approach you or cuts off their access to affection or space, that’s a sign of jealousy.
Remedy: Reinforce boundaries—such as taking turns for affection—and teach a “wait your turn” cue during one-on-one interactions.

Dear Cathy,
              I have an eight-year-old, 35-pound mixed-breed dog who sits outside with me in the evening. One of his favorite things to do is to catch flies. He just sits there, and when a fly comes by, he catches and swallows it. He’s quite good at it, and it keeps our patio free from flies. But I was wondering if this could cause any health issues. He has never had a health problem, but I thought I would ask you if this is something I need to stop him from doing. – Jenna

Dear Jenna,
              It sounds like your dog has become quite the fly-catching expert, and I understand your concern about whether it could cause health issues. Fortunately, flies are not harmful to dogs, and eating them generally won’t cause any problems. In fact, dogs are natural scavengers and would likely eat far worse things given the opportunity. Flies are mostly just a source of protein and won’t pose a health risk to your dog.
              That said, while flies are safe, it’s important to stay alert in case he tries to catch other insects that could be more dangerous. For instance, bees, wasps, or yellow jackets could sting his mouth or throat if he catches them. A sting inside the mouth could cause swelling, which could become serious if it affects his ability to breathe or eat. It’s a good idea to keep some Benadryl on hand just in case, but always consult your vet before giving it to your dog to ensure the right dosage.
              If you notice any signs of swelling, excessive drooling, difficulty breathing, or unusual behavior after catching an insect, it’s best to seek veterinary advice immediately. But as far as flies go, you can let your dog continue to enjoy his evening “fly hunting” without too much worry.
              In addition to stinging insects, you should also be aware of the other things dogs like to put in their mouths:

1. Toxic Plants and Mushrooms: Dogs can sometimes nibble on plants or mushrooms that grow outdoors, and while many are harmless, others can be toxic. Knowing what’s growing in your yard and removing anything potentially harmful is important.
2. Stones or Rocks: Some dogs like to chew on or swallow small stones, which can cause blockages in the digestive tract or damage teeth. It’s a good idea to watch your dog to ensure he’s not picking up rocks or other inedible items.
3. Small Toys or Debris: If your dog is habitually catching things, be mindful of any small objects, such as children’s toys or garden debris, that could be accidentally swallowed. Small items can become lodged in his throat or cause gastrointestinal blockages.
4. Rodents or Other Small Animals: Some dogs have a strong prey drive and might try to catch and eat small critters, such as mice or lizards. While this is natural behavior, wild animals can carry parasites or diseases, so it’s best to discourage him from catching them if possible.
5. Insects Treated with Pesticides: While flies are harmless, be cautious if the area or your home has been recently treated with insecticides or pesticides. Ingesting insects that have been exposed to these chemicals could lead to poisoning or other health issues.
6. Snakes. While most garden snakes are non-venomous and can help control pests, they can bite defensively if threatened. Although non-venomous snake bites are usually minor, swallowing one could pose a choking hazard or digestive issue for a dog, especially if the snake is large. The greater concern arises with venomous snakes like copperheads or rattlesnakes, which could pose a serious threat to a dog. A bite from a venomous snake can cause severe swelling, pain, and even life-threatening reactions that require immediate veterinary attention. Even a deadly venomous snake could still be dangerous because the venom remains in the body after death.
                To reduce the chances of these encounters, keep your yard tidy and trimmed, and remove brush piles to make it less inviting for snakes.
                 Additionally, supervising your dog when he’s outside and teaching a strong “leave it” command can help keep him from approaching snakes or other potentially harmful critters. (If your dog is bitten or shows signs of pain, swelling, or lethargy, it’s essential to contact a vet immediately for treatment.)

While catching flies isn’t something you need to stop, it’s always good to be mindful of these other potential hazards. I hope this helps, and feel free to reach out if you have more questions.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, and columnist with more than 35 years in the field of animal welfare. If you are interested in her children’s books, please visit https://cathyrosenthal.wpenginepowered.com/petpunditpublishing/. Send your pet questions to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-37c577@yhtac

Dear Anne,
              Submissive urination in dogs can indeed be a tricky behavior to address, but with patience and the right approach, it can often be managed or even overcome. Here are some tips to consider:
 
1. Vet Check: First, ensure there are no underlying health issues contributing to the problem. A visit to the vet can rule out incontinence or urinary tract infections.

2. Non-Dominant Interactions: You’re on the right track by avoiding direct eye contact and not petting her when she stands up on your legs. Continue to avoid standing over her or reaching over her head. When you interact with her, try to get down to her level, which can make you appear less intimidating.

3. Positive Reinforcement: Use positive reinforcement to build her confidence. When she does something correctly, reward her with treats and praise. This helps her associate good behavior with positive outcomes.

4. Calm Environment: Maintaining a calm environment is crucial. Minimize loud noises, sudden movements, and overly enthusiastic greetings. When you come home, try to ignore her initially until she calms down, then greet her calmly.

5. Training and Commands: Engage in basic obedience training to build her confidence and establish a routine. Commands like “sit” and “stay” can be very beneficial. Always use a calm, assertive voice when giving commands.

6. Pheromones: Consider using pheromone collars or plug-ins. These can create a sense of security and calm for your dog, which can be useful in reducing anxiety.

7. Toys and Games: Focus on interactive toys that don’t involve direct human contact. Puzzle toys, treat-dispensing toys, and fetch are good options. Avoid games like tug-of-war that can increase excitement and anxiety.

8. Patience and Consistency: Consistency is key. Stick to a routine and be patient. Submissive urination often improves as dogs mature and gain confidence.

9. Desensitization: Gradually desensitize your dog to triggers that cause submissive urination. If certain actions like reaching out to pet her trigger urination, practice these actions in a very calm and slow manner, rewarding her when she remains calm and does not urinate. Start with small, non-threatening gestures and slowly build up to more direct interactions as she becomes more comfortable.

10. Behavior Modification: If the issue persists, consider working with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist who specializes in submissive urination. They can provide tailored advice and techniques to help your dog overcome this behavior.

Remember, your dog’s behavior is not her fault. With time, understanding, and the right techniques, she can learn to feel more secure and reduce her submissive urination.

With over 35 years of experience advocating for animals in animal welfare, Cathy Rosenthal is a seasoned expert dedicated to improving the lives of our furry friends. Explore her books and programs by visiting https://cathyrosenthal.wpenginepowered.com/petpunditpublishing/.

Credit: Cathy M. Rosenthal, The Pet Pundit

Have you ever bent over a dog only to be met with an unexpected stream of urine? You’re not alone. Submissive urination, though frustrating for humans, is an involuntary canine behavior often stemming from a mix of excitement or submissiveness. While it’s not always clear what exactly submissive urinators are afraid of, it’s believed that it’s commonly associated with feelings of insecurity, anxiety, or a lack of confidence in certain social situations, which may include interactions with their owners, other animals, or unfamiliar humans.

Very often, submissive dogs respond to these encounters by rolling on their backs and sending up a stream of urine, which is their way of acknowledging the other person (or dog) as “the boss.” It’s something dogs might do to show their lesser status in the pack. Sometimes puppies grow out of this behavior, and sometimes they don’t. Understanding the underlying triggers and addressing them with patience and positive reinforcement can help manage
submissive urination in dogs, leading to a happier – and drier – home environment. Here’s how to address the issue.

1. Never punish your dog. A correction or loud voice establishes dominance that may result in even more submissive peeing. Always use positive reinforcement and reward your dog for confident behavior with treats, praise, or playtime. Building their confidence in non-threatening ways can help reduce anxiety and submissive urination over time.

2. Make introductions gradually. Introduce your dog to other people or animals outside before bringing them into the house. Ask friends and family to avoid greeting your dog too quickly. They should ignore the dog for a few minutes and wait for the dog to approach them before engaging, as this can help reduce some of the dog’s submissive impulses. They should also avoid bending over the dog to pet or greet the dog. Bending over a dog is a dominant posture contributing to this involuntary submissive behavior. Instead, ask people (including all friends, family, and you) to squat down next to the dog to pet them and pet your dog under the chin rather than on top of the head. This will help increase their confidence and eventually result in fewer submissive behaviors.

3. Create a Calm Environment. Ensure your dog has a safe and comfortable space where they can retreat if overwhelmed. Training your dog to lay on a mat or go into an open kennel gives them their own space to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed. Having their own place where they are never bothered can significantly reduce stress and anxiety, positively impacting their behavior.

4. Increase your dog’s confidence through training and socialization. Gradual and positive exposure to various people, environments, and situations can help build your dog’s confidence. Consider enrolling in a positive reinforcement-based training class to help your dog learn to navigate social interactions more comfortably. Take your dog for walks in the neighborhood so they can get used to being around other animals and people. Avoid dog parks, as they may reset pack hierarchy and hinder your dog’s progress.

5. Practice patience and consistency. It is crucial to consistently apply these strategies and be patient with your dog’s progress. Submissive urination often requires time and a calm, steady approach to see significant improvement. Celebrate small victories and maintain a supportive attitude throughout the training process.

Following these simple steps can help your dog feel more secure and reduce instances of submissive urination, resulting in a more relaxed and enjoyable relationship with your furry friend.

With over 35 years of experience advocating for animals in animal welfare, Cathy Rosenthal is a seasoned expert dedicated to improving the lives of our furry friends. Explore her books and programs by visiting https://cathyrosenthal.wpenginepowered.com/petpunditpublishing/.

Credit: Cathy M. Rosenthal, The Pet Pundit

Fast-eating dogs are often aggressive around their food, so it is important to train your dog to be patient around his food dish.

Here’s how:

• Place an empty bowl on the floor and step towards your dog so he walks backwards from the bowl.
• When he is a few feet away, ask him to sit and stay.
• Then step behind the bowl and put some food in it.
• Make your dog wait a few seconds, then give him the signal to eat.
• When he is done, step towards him again, so you are in between your dog and the bowl.
• Wait a few seconds, step back behind the bowl, and drop more food into the bowl.
• Tell your dog to wait, then give him the signal to eat.
• Repeat until you have finished giving him his entire dinner.

By following these simple steps, your dog will learn good things come to the bowl when he steps back from it and will begin to step back on his own, which means he’s learning patience. This should eventually result in a calmer eater.

For more information on how to help your fast-eating dog slow down when eating his food – check out this post.

We adopted a boxer/pug/bulldog named Magento. He is three years old. Our problem is that he is systematically eating our backyard from top to bottom. He is breaking branches off trees, and chewing on branches and the other plant materials in the yard. He only stops when he gets caught. A few hours later, he passes some obnoxious gas. This can’t be good for his digestion. Why is he doing this and how can we stop him?

– Allison Vann, Cleveland, Ohio

Dear Allison,

There’s an old saying, “If you don’t give a dog a job, he will become self-employed.” Apparently, Magento’s made it his full-time job to landscape your yard and prune your trees.  

Here are some simple steps to stop your puppy from chewing up and destroying things

1. 1. Start by giving Magento more supervised time outdoors, since it sounds like he does listen to you when he gets caught. He wants to please you, so follow up your quick verbal corrections with treats and praise to show him you approve. I promise it’s a behavior he will want to see you repeat.

   2. As for why he does it, your enterprising dog may be feeling bored or suffering from anxiety. Bored dogs often entertain themselves by resorting to destructive behaviors, like digging holes, chewing on things or tearing up the house. Anxious dogs may exhibit the same behaviors, but for reasons related to being separated from you. Thankfully, both problems can be addressed in similar ways.Dogs need exercise and clever activities to stay physically fit and mentally healthy. Keep Magento active by walking him a few times a day or teaching him to play fetch or some other active game. Keep his mind busy by introducing puzzle toys where he must figure out for himself how to push a toy over or open a secret compartment to get a treat.

   3. Finally, teach him something for at least 10 minutes a day, like sit, down or retrieve a ball. Dogs often are more relaxed after training sessions because it requires a lot of brain power to listen and learn new things.

If you feel he might suffer from anxiety, talk to your veterinarian about medication to help him during this training/transition period. The goal is to keep Magento’s body relaxed and his mind busy, so he doesn’t feel compelled to re-design your backyard. 

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-485d97@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal.

My wife and I rescued an adorable little white munchkin a few years ago. I was going to foster him, but that changed after ten minutes in our home. Charlie was ours. He’s a great companion, but he gets a little whacked out when we are walking and another dog comes into view or barks behind a fence. I’m sure he’s just protecting me, but we’d like him to be better behaved. My wife watches dog shows and we’ve tried new collars and getting between the distraction and Charlie. Do you have any ideas that may help?

– Mike, Kingsburg, California  

Dear Mike,

Walking a dog-reactive-dog can be challenging, but you can help your munchkin learn better ways to behave. I know you have tried a few things, but let’s try combining some techniques.

First, walk your dog on a six-foot nylon leash. Tie two knots on the leash, two feet from each end. These knots will give you places to hold onto the leash (more control) without it slipping through your fingers.

Next, use a Martindale collar that prevents escapes, or, a Gentle Leader®, Haltie® or other type of head collar that prevents pulling, depending on your concern. These collars allow for gentle, yet effective, corrections during reactive situations. (Always remove these collars after walking or training your dog.)

Blocking his vision is a good idea. When another dog and owner approaches, cross to the other side of the street, then stop, pull your dog behind you, ask him to sit, and shorten your hold on the leash so he can’t move from this position. Stand in front of your dog and face the passing dog. Use your body to block your dog’s view of the other dog. This lets your dog know “you got this,” which often settles most dogs. When the other dog passes, resume your walk.

Next, train your dog to “look at me.” If you watch obedient dogs, they are always looking at their owners for instructions, which helps reduce reactivity around other dogs. Using a clicker, say your dog’s name and when he makes eye contact, “click” and “treat.” Start training your dog with no distractions. Build on that success by training him around some distractions (like a dog behind a fence). Continue training your dog whenever a dog approaches, knowing you can go back to blocking his vision, if needed.

Finally, plan your walks based on his training success and reactivity levels. While exposure to other dogs and people can improve your dog’s tolerance, it also can be very stressful and exhausting if every walk results in multiple reactions. You want your dog to have a success each time he walks. So, walk at less busy times of the day until your dog’s reactivity improves.

Cathy M. Rosenthal is a longtime animal advocate, author, columnist and pet expert who has more than 25 years in the animal welfare field. Send your pet questions, stories and tips to moc.tidnuptepobfsctd-521e80@yhtac. Please include your name, city, and state. You can follow her @cathymrosenthal