By Cathy M. Rosenthal
If you’ve spent years feeding and caring for feral or semi-feral cats in your neighborhood, you know they’re more than just strays. They’re your responsibility. So what happens when you move? While relocating feral cats (or even a small colony) isn’t ideal, sometimes it’s the only humane option, especially when no one else is able or willing to step in to take over their care. If you leave without a plan, they’ll likely suffer, and hunger will set in quickly.
So here are your options:
Find a neighbor to take over their care. Post on Nextdoor, local Facebook groups, or ask around your vet or shelter. A kind neighbor may be willing to help if they understand what’s involved.
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Reach out to a local feral cat group. They may know caretakers who are set up to help or have experience with relocation.
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Ask the new tenants or homeowners if they’d be open to feeding the cats. Many will say no, but some might surprise you, especially if they are animal lovers.
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Relocate them with you. If you’re moving to a rural or cat-safe property, you can bring them—but it requires a step-by-step acclimation process to help them adjust and stay safe. If you choose this route, keep reading. I’ve included a detailed relocation guide below to guide you through the process.
Step 1: Prepare the New Location
- Check local laws or ordinances about outdoor cats in your new area.
- Make sure the new environment is safe: low traffic, no nearby aggressive pets, no local predators.
- Get permission if the property isn’t fully yours.
- Have a quiet, sheltered area ready for confinement (garage, shed, barn, or secure outdoor enclosure).
Step 2: Set Up a Confinement Space
Feral cats must be contained at the new location for 2–4 weeks, allowing them to adjust and imprint on the new territory.
- Use large dog crates (42” or bigger) or build a secure enclosure.
- Each crate should include:
- A hiding spot (covered box or carrier)
- Litter box (use familiar litter if possible)
- Food and water bowls (placed far from the litter box)
- A towel or blanket draped over part of the crate for privacy
Step 3: Trap the Cats
- Use humane live traps (like Tomahawk or Tru-Catch).
- Do not feed the cats for 24 hours prior to trapping to increase your success of catching them.
- Label each trap with the cat’s name/description.
- Cover the trap with a towel or sheet once the cat is caught to reduce stress.
- Transport them directly to your confinement area.
Tip: Move all cats at once (if possible) to avoid breaking up a bonded group and so they can all be confined at the same time.
Step 4: Confinement Period (2–4 Weeks)
- Feed on a consistent schedule and maintain a calm environment.
- Visit regularly, but minimize stress—talk softly and observe quietly.
- Clean litter daily and refresh food/water.
- Use familiar-smelling items from their old territory if possible (blankets, straw).
- Avoid letting them out early. They need time to be very familiar and bonded to the new space.
Step 5: Release
- Choose a quiet morning for the release.
- Open the crate/door and allow them to exit at their own pace.
- Do not force them out.
- Leave food and water in the same spot where they were during confinement.
- Gradually move the feeding station to your preferred long-term spot over the next 1–2 weeks.
Step 6: Ongoing Care
- Provide daily food and fresh water.
- Offer ongoing shelter (insulated cat houses, straw-filled crates, under a porch, etc.).
- Monitor for signs of illness, injury, or if any cats go missing.
- Keep the area clean and avoid attracting wildlife or pests.
Additional Tips:
- Remember, relocation is a last resort. Cats form strong bonds to their territory, and relocation can be a stressful experience. But if you’re their only caregiver and there’s no one to take over at your old home, moving them is justified and needed.
- Feral cats may disappear for a few days after release, but often return if they’ve been confined properly.
- Consider microchipping them before the move if you haven’t already.
Hello Cathy,
I have been taking care of a dozen feral kitties for 7 years now at my home in West Bloomfield, MI
We are of retirement age now and want to travel. I need to rehome these sweet kitties. Do you know of anyone I could call to see about this?
They are all really sweet, and I can pet most of them.
Thanking you in advance for your prompt reply,
Lynne
Dear Lynne,
First, thank you for caring for these cats for so many years. Seven years is a long commitment, and it’s clear these cats have been safe, loved, and cared for because of you.
I would begin by reaching out to local feral cat or Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) organizations in your area to discuss your options. These groups often know of local barn cat or working cat placement programs, foster networks, or other local resources that may not be widely advertised.
Unfortunately, finding placement for adult community or formerly feral cats can be very difficult right now, especially in large numbers, because shelters and rescue groups across the country are overwhelmed. However, because many of your cats are social and can be petted, some rescues may be willing to evaluate whether a few could transition into adoptive homes, barn cat programs, or sanctuary-style placements.
That said, my first choice — if possible — would actually be to see whether someone could continue caring for the cats where they already live. Community cats are deeply connected to their territory, and relocation can be stressful and risky for them. Sometimes a nearby neighbor, friend, relative, or even another local cat caregiver may be willing to take over feeding and monitoring responsibilities, especially if you help with food costs or veterinary care.
Even if the person does not live next door, it can still work. Many colony caregivers stop by once or twice daily to feed, provide fresh water, and monitor the cats. Some caregivers also set up feeding stations with storage bins for food, automatic feeders, insulated shelters, or outdoor water stations to make daily care easier. A local TNR organization may even know experienced colony caregivers in your area who could help or advise you.
If you do contact rescue organizations, I would explain:
– How many cats you have
– Which are socialized and can be handled
– Whether they are spayed/neutered and vaccinated
– Their approximate ages
– Whether any can live indoors
– Whether you are able to provide financial support or supplies during transition
You may also want to ask specifically about:
– Working cat or barn cat placement programs
– Foster-based rescue groups
– Sanctuary placement options
– Assistance with gradual rehoming rather than all at once
Contact local feral cat groups, local humane societies, local animal control, and cat-specific rescue groups in your area.
I wish I had an easy solution, but I do want you to know that what you’ve done for these cats matters greatly. Many would not have survived without your care.